Posted by Liana Harrow
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When you’re riding at speed and suddenly need to stop-like a car pulling out ahead or a child chasing a ball into the road-your instinct might be to squeeze the brake lever hard. But squeezing too hard, too fast, can lock the front wheel and send you flying. That’s where advanced braking techniques like threshold braking and understanding ABS come in. These aren’t just for racers or track days. They’re survival skills for every rider who wants to stop faster and stay upright when it matters most.
Threshold braking is the art of braking right up to the point where the tire is about to lose grip, but not quite crossing it. It’s the sweet spot between maximum deceleration and maintaining control. On a motorcycle, the front brake provides about 70-80% of your stopping power. That means if you’re not using it properly, you’re wasting half your ability to stop.
Think of it like walking a tightrope. Too little pressure, and you take too long to stop. Too much, and you crash. The goal is to apply just enough force to make the front tire squeal slightly, feel the bike lean forward, and sense the tire hovering on the edge of grip. You don’t need to lock the wheel-you need to feel it almost lock.
Practicing threshold braking on a quiet, empty road or an empty parking lot is essential. Start at 30 mph, apply the front brake smoothly and progressively. Feel the weight transfer. Notice how the front forks compress. Gradually increase pressure until you feel the tire start to shudder-that’s your threshold. Then back off just a little. That’s your braking zone. Repeat this until your body remembers the feeling. You’re training your fingers, your core, your instincts.
ABS-Anti-lock Braking System-was once seen as a gadget for cruisers and touring bikes. Now, it’s standard on almost every new motorcycle sold in the EU and US. But many riders still don’t understand how it actually works, or worse, they think it’s a crutch.
ABS doesn’t stop you faster. It stops you more safely. When the system detects that a wheel is about to lock, it pulses the brake pressure dozens of times per second. This lets the tire keep rolling, maintaining steering control. On wet roads, gravel, or uneven surfaces, that’s a game-changer.
Here’s the truth most riders miss: ABS doesn’t replace threshold braking-it enhances it. On a dry road, a skilled rider can often stop just as fast without ABS. But on a slick surface, or when you panic and grab the brake, ABS kicks in and saves you from yourself. It’s not about letting the computer do the work. It’s about trusting the system so you can focus on where you’re going, not whether you’ll slide out.
Test it yourself. Find a safe, empty stretch of wet asphalt. Ride at 40 mph and apply the front brake hard. You’ll feel the ABS pulsing through the lever. That’s not a malfunction. That’s the system working. If you panic and let go, you lose control. Keep pressure on. Let the ABS do its job.
Some riders, especially those who learned on older bikes or in off-road settings, rely heavily on the rear brake. That’s fine for low-speed maneuvers or loose terrain. But on the road, at speed, the rear brake alone won’t cut it.
The rear tire has far less weight on it when you brake hard. That’s physics. As the bike dives forward, the rear tire lifts slightly and loses traction. Applying heavy rear brake pressure under hard deceleration will either do nothing-or cause the rear wheel to skid, leading to a high-side crash.
Use the rear brake as a stabilizer. A light tap helps settle the bike, especially when cornering or braking in a straight line. But your primary stopping force must come from the front. The rear brake is your assistant, not your main tool.
There’s a dangerous idea floating around: “You shouldn’t brake while turning.” That’s not true. You can brake while cornering-but only if you know how.
When you’re leaned over, the tire’s contact patch is already working hard to maintain grip. Adding braking force reduces the tire’s ability to turn. Too much brake, and you’ll low-side. But a gentle, progressive application of the front brake-especially in the first half of the turn-can actually help you tighten your line and exit faster.
This is called trail braking. It’s an advanced technique used by racers and experienced riders. The key is smoothness. You don’t yank the lever. You roll it on gradually as you enter the corner, then ease off as you stand the bike up. It takes practice, and it’s not for beginners. But understanding it helps you avoid panic braking mid-turn.
If you find yourself entering a corner too fast, the best move isn’t to brake harder. It’s to straighten the bike slightly, brake firmly in a straight line, then re-lean and continue. Your tires can’t do two things at once-turn and stop-without enough grip. Prioritize stopping before turning.
Let’s say you’re riding through a village at 40 mph. A parked car door swings open. You’ve got less than two seconds to react.
What do you do?
Another scenario: rain. You’re on a highway, and ahead, there’s a patch of oil slick. You see it too late. Do you lift off the brake? No. Keep pressure on. ABS will keep the tire rolling. Lifting off means you lose control. Trust the system.
On gravel? Same thing. Don’t panic. Keep the bike upright, apply steady front brake, and let the ABS modulate. The gravel will slow you down naturally. Fighting it makes things worse.
You can’t learn advanced braking from a video or a blog. You need to feel it. That’s why rider training courses exist. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) and similar programs in the UK and EU offer advanced braking clinics. These aren’t just theory-they’re on-track sessions with cones, wet surfaces, and instructors watching your technique.
If you’ve never practiced threshold braking, start here: Find an empty parking lot. Mark a starting line. Ride up to 25 mph. Brake as hard as you can without locking the front. Note how far you stop. Do it again. Push a little harder each time. Track your stopping distance. After 10 tries, you’ll notice a difference.
Then try it with the rear brake only. You’ll see how much longer it takes. Then try both together. Feel how the rear stabilizes the front. Now try it on a wet patch of concrete. Feel the ABS kick in. That’s your new baseline.
Practice doesn’t make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect. Slow, deliberate, focused sessions are worth more than hours of reckless riding.
Even the best technique fails if your gear isn’t up to par. Your tires are the only part of your bike touching the road. Worn tires? No matter how good your braking is, you’re one bad patch away from disaster.
Check your tire tread depth. If it’s below 1mm, replace them. Use tires designed for road use-not off-road or touring tires if you ride hard. A good set of sport tires can cut your stopping distance by 15% compared to worn, cheap ones.
Brake pads matter too. Stock pads are fine for commuting. But if you ride aggressively, upgrade to sintered or semi-sintered pads. They handle heat better and give more consistent feel under hard use.
Suspension is often ignored. If your front forks are soft or worn, your bike will dive too much under braking. That reduces front tire contact and makes threshold braking harder. Get your suspension checked every 10,000 miles. Adjust preload if you carry a passenger or luggage.
The best riders aren’t the ones who ride the fastest. They’re the ones who can stop the quickest-and stay in control. Advanced braking isn’t about showing off. It’s about survival. It’s about giving yourself room to react, to avoid the unexpected, to come home at the end of the day.
Every time you ride, ask yourself: How would I stop if something suddenly appeared? Then practice. Not just once. Not just once a year. Every few months. Because your reflexes fade. Your confidence grows only when you’ve tested it.
Threshold braking and ABS aren’t magic. They’re tools. And like any tool, they’re only as good as the person using them. Master them, and you don’t just ride safer-you ride with more confidence, more control, and more freedom.
No. ABS helps prevent wheel lock and keeps you in control, but it doesn’t shorten stopping distance on dry pavement compared to expert threshold braking. It’s a safety net, not a performance booster. You still need to apply firm, progressive brake pressure.
Yes-if practiced correctly. Threshold braking is the most effective way to stop quickly on dry pavement. But it requires training. Don’t try it in traffic or on unfamiliar roads. Practice in empty lots first, then gradually apply it in real-world conditions with awareness of road surface and traffic.
Not necessarily. Stock brakes are fine for learning. But to get the most out of advanced braking, ensure your tires are in good condition, brake pads aren’t worn, and suspension is properly set up. Upgrading to better pads or braided brake lines can improve feel and consistency, but technique matters more than hardware.
A spongy brake lever usually means air in the brake line or worn brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, reducing its effectiveness. Flush and replace the fluid every two years. If the problem continues, bleed the brake system or have it checked by a mechanic.
No. ABS only prevents wheel lock during braking. It won’t stop you from hitting something if you’re going too fast, misjudge a turn, or ride on extremely slippery surfaces like ice. It’s one tool in your safety toolkit-not a substitute for awareness, speed management, or good riding habits.