Classic Car Transport: Enclosed vs. Open Carriers - Which Is Right for Your Vehicle?

Shipping a classic car isn’t like moving a daily driver. You’re not just transporting metal and paint-you’re moving history. A 1967 Shelby GT500, a 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air, or a rare Jaguar E-Type deserves more than a open trailer rattling down the highway. That’s why so many owners face the same question: enclosed vs. open carriers for classic car transport.

Why the choice matters more than you think

Open carriers are the standard for everyday vehicles. They’re cheaper, more common, and faster to book. But when you’re moving a car worth £50,000 or more, those savings can cost you far more in the long run. Road debris, rain, dust, and even bird droppings can scratch paint, dull finishes, or worse-cause permanent damage to hand-polished surfaces. A single pebble kicked up by a truck ahead can leave a chip that takes a professional to repair. And repairs on classic cars? They’re not just expensive-they’re hard to find.

Enclosed carriers, on the other hand, are sealed trailers. Think of them as moving garages. They protect your car from weather, road grime, and curious onlookers. Many are air-ride suspended, meaning less vibration and shock during transit. For collector cars, concours-level restorations, or vehicles with original paint, this isn’t a luxury-it’s a necessity.

What enclosed carriers actually protect against

Let’s break down the real risks open carriers expose your car to:

• Weather damage: Rain, snow, or even high humidity can cause water spots on clear coats or rust on exposed metal. A 2024 study by the Classic Car Club of America found that 17% of open-shipped classics showed signs of moisture-related finish degradation within six months of delivery.
• Debris impact: Gravel, road salt, and even tire fragments from semi-trucks can chip paint. One owner in Manchester had his 1970 Dodge Charger returned with 14 new chips-all from a single open haul.
• UV exposure: Sunlight fades paint and cracks interiors over time. Even a few days in direct sun during transport can fade a perfectly restored dashboard.
• Theft and tampering: Open trailers are visible. Thieves have targeted classic cars mid-transport, especially in high-traffic corridors like the M1 or A1.

Enclosed carriers eliminate all of these. They’re locked, climate-controlled in many cases, and often tracked with GPS. Some companies even offer padded interior walls and zero-contact loading to prevent scratches from straps or ramps.

Open carriers: when they might still work

Don’t assume enclosed is always the answer. There are situations where an open carrier makes sense:

• Your car is already in rough shape-say, a project car needing full restoration. If you’re planning to repaint or rebody it anyway, minor scratches won’t matter.
• You’re shipping locally, under 100 miles. The exposure time is minimal.
• Cost is the absolute limiting factor. Open transport can be 40-60% cheaper than enclosed.

But here’s the catch: if you’re paying £3,000 to ship your car, and £5,000 to fix a paint chip, you’re not saving money-you’re gambling.

Price difference: what you’re really paying

In the UK, shipping a classic car from London to Edinburgh costs roughly:

Cost comparison: enclosed vs. open classic car transport (UK routes)

Route	Open Carrier (approx.)	Enclosed Carrier (approx.)	Price Difference
London to Edinburgh	£850	£1,450	+£600
Bristol to Newcastle	£780	£1,300	+£520
Manchester to Cardiff	£690	£1,200	+£510

That £600 difference might feel steep. But consider this: a single professional paint correction on a classic car starts at £1,200. A full repaint? £5,000-£15,000 depending on the model. The enclosed carrier isn’t an expense-it’s insurance.

What to look for in a transporter

Not all enclosed carriers are created equal. Here’s what separates the good from the bad:

• Experience with classics: Ask if they’ve shipped your make or model before. A company that moves 50 pickup trucks a week might not know how to handle a low-slung MGB.
• Zero-contact loading: Your car should roll on and off on its own wheels, not be winched or lifted by straps around the axles.
• Insurance coverage: Make sure they offer full-value protection. Standard freight insurance often caps at £10,000-useless for a £75,000 Ferrari.
• Tracking and communication: You should get updates. Real-time GPS tracking is standard for premium services.
• Driver training: Drivers should know how to handle delicate finishes. No gloves? No good.

One Bristol-based owner shipped his 1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1 with a company that didn’t use padded wheel chocks. The car rolled slightly during transit. Result? A 4-inch scratch along the rocker panel. Repairs cost £2,800. He now only uses carriers who require padded wheel wells and front/rear wheel stops.

Timing and logistics

Classic car transport isn’t like ordering a taxi. You need to plan ahead:

• Book at least 3-4 weeks in advance, especially in spring and autumn-peak seasons for shows and swaps.
• Remove all loose items from the car. Interior clutter can shift and scratch during transit.
• Take photos before loading. Document every scratch, dent, or imperfection. This is your proof if something new appears.
• Be present for pickup and delivery. Don’t let someone else sign off on the condition report.

If you can’t be there, assign a trusted friend or mechanic to stand in. Never rely on a driver’s word alone.

Real-world example: the 1957 Thunderbird

A collector in Bath bought a 1957 Ford Thunderbird in Florida for £48,000. He had two options: open carrier for £1,800 or enclosed for £3,100. He chose enclosed. The car arrived with no scratches, no dust in the crevices, and the original leather still supple. The seller even sent a thank-you note-because he’d seen too many of his cars arrive damaged by open haulers.

The extra £1,300 didn’t feel like a cost. It felt like peace of mind.

What you shouldn’t do

Avoid these common mistakes:

• Choosing the cheapest quote without checking reviews or insurance.
• Assuming your car insurance covers transport. Most don’t.
• Letting the transporter load the car without supervision.
• Shipping a car with a full tank of gas. Fuel sloshing can cause pressure buildup or leaks.
• Forgetting to disconnect the battery. It can drain or short during long hauls.

Final decision: enclosed or open?

Ask yourself these three questions:

1. Is the car worth more than £15,000?
2. Is the paint, interior, or restoration original or professionally done?
3. Would I be devastated if it arrived with new damage?

If you answered yes to any of these, choose enclosed. Always.

For lower-value project cars, or short local moves, open might be acceptable. But for anything that holds sentimental, historical, or financial value-enclosed isn’t optional. It’s the only responsible choice.

Next steps

If you’re ready to ship:

• Get at least three quotes from companies that specialize in classics-not general freight.
• Ask for references from other classic car owners.
• Verify their insurance limits and loading procedures.
• Never pay the full amount upfront. A 30-50% deposit is standard; the rest should be due upon delivery and inspection.

Your classic car isn’t just a vehicle. It’s a piece of history. Treat it that way-from the moment you book the transport to the second it rolls off the trailer.