How to Perform Basic DIY Car Maintenance at Home

Most people think car maintenance means a trip to the garage, expensive bills, and waiting around for hours. But if you know the basics, you can handle most routine tasks right in your driveway. You don’t need a degree in engineering or a full workshop. Just a few tools, some time, and the confidence to get your hands dirty. And the savings? A typical oil change at a shop costs £50-£70. Do it yourself, and you’ll spend under £20. That’s £500 a year just on oil changes alone.

Check Your Oil Level and Change It Regularly

Your engine runs on oil. Without it, metal parts grind together and overheat. Most modern cars need an oil change every 10,000 to 15,000 miles, but check your manual. If you drive in stop-and-go traffic or dusty conditions, do it sooner.

Here’s how to check your oil:

1. Turn off the engine and wait 5 minutes for the oil to settle.
2. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag.
3. Reinsert it fully, then pull it out again.
4. Look at the marks on the stick. Oil should be between the minimum and maximum lines.
5. If it’s low, add the type of oil your car needs - usually 5W-30 or 5W-40. Don’t mix brands.

For an oil change, you’ll need: a wrench, a new oil filter, a funnel, a drain pan, and the right oil. Jack up the car safely using jack stands - never rely on a jack alone. Remove the drain plug, let the old oil drip out, replace the filter, refill with new oil, then check the level again. Dispose of used oil at a local garage or recycling centre. Most places take it for free.

Keep Your Tires in Good Shape

Tires are your only contact with the road. Worn or underinflated tires hurt fuel economy, make braking longer, and can blow out. Check pressure at least once a month, and always before a long trip.

Use a digital tire gauge - cheap ones from £5 online work fine. Look for the recommended PSI on the sticker inside your driver’s door. It’s not on the tire sidewall - that’s the maximum, not the ideal. Most cars need 30-35 PSI. If it’s low, fill it at a petrol station. If it’s overinflated, press the valve stem to let air out.

Look for uneven wear. If the edges are more worn than the middle, you’re underinflated. If the center is worn, you’re overinflated. Cracks, bulges, or nails? Get them checked. Don’t wait until the tread is below 1.6mm - the legal limit. For safety, replace them at 3mm.

Inspect Your Brake Fluid

Brakes rely on hydraulic pressure. If the fluid is dirty or low, your brakes feel spongy or don’t respond as quickly. Check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. It’s usually a small plastic tank near the firewall, labeled with “brake fluid.”

The fluid should be clear or slightly yellow. If it’s dark brown or black, it’s contaminated and needs replacing. Most manufacturers say replace it every two years, but if you drive in hilly areas or carry heavy loads, do it yearly. Never top up with just any brake fluid - use DOT 4 unless your manual says otherwise. Mixing types can damage your system.

Changing brake fluid yourself isn’t for beginners. It requires bleeding the lines, which needs two people or a vacuum tool. But checking the level and colour? That’s simple. If it’s low, don’t just add more - get it inspected. A drop in fluid often means a leak.

Test Your Battery

A dead battery leaves you stranded, especially in winter. Most car batteries last 3-5 years. If your car struggles to start on cold mornings, or the lights dim when you turn the key, it’s time to check it.

You can buy a simple battery tester for £10-£15. Place the clamps on the terminals - red to positive, black to negative. The display shows if it’s good, weak, or needs replacement. If you don’t have one, turn on the headlights for 5 minutes, then try to start the car. If they dim badly, the battery is weak.

Look for corrosion on the terminals - that white, chalky stuff. Clean it with a mix of baking soda and water, then scrub with an old toothbrush. Dry it off and apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to prevent future buildup. Always disconnect the negative terminal first when removing the battery.

Replace the Engine Air Filter

A clogged air filter forces your engine to work harder. That means less power and worse fuel economy. Most filters last 15,000-30,000 miles, but if you drive on dusty roads, replace it sooner.

Open the hood and find the airbox - a black plastic box near the engine, usually connected to a large hose. Unclip or unscrew the cover. Pull out the old filter. It should be white or light grey. If it’s dark and covered in dirt, it’s done. Pop in the new one. Make sure the airflow arrow on the filter points toward the engine. Reattach the cover. Done in under 10 minutes.

Check Windshield Washer Fluid and Wipers

It’s easy to forget, but clean visibility matters. Washer fluid runs out fast, especially in winter. Check the reservoir - it’s usually marked with a windshield symbol. Top up with premixed fluid. Don’t use water alone - it freezes and can damage the pump.

Wiper blades wear out. If they streak, chatter, or leave smears, replace them. Most cars use standard sizes - check your manual or measure the old ones. New blades cost £8-£15 each. Lift the arm, press the release tab, slide out the old blade, and snap in the new one. Do this every 6-12 months.

What You Shouldn’t Try at Home

Some jobs are better left to professionals. Don’t touch:

• Timing belts - if they snap, your engine can be destroyed.
• Transmission fluid - modern systems need special tools and diagnostics.
• AC recharge - requires refrigerant handling certification and equipment.
• Electrical system repairs - wiring issues can cause fires or damage ECUs.

If you’re unsure, stop. A £20 mistake can turn into a £2,000 repair.

Tools You Need to Start

You don’t need a full garage. Here’s what you need to cover the basics:

• Socket set with ratchet (8-19mm range)
• Jack and jack stands (never use a jack alone)
• Tire pressure gauge
• Oil filter wrench
• Funnel
• Drain pan
• Latex or nitrile gloves
• Engine oil (check your manual for type)
• Engine air filter (correct size for your model)
• Battery tester
• Wiper blades (matched to your car)

Store these in a plastic toolbox. Keep them clean and dry. A basic set costs under £100 - less than one garage visit.

Why DIY Car Maintenance Makes Sense

It’s not just about saving money. When you do your own maintenance, you learn your car. You notice small changes - a new noise, a slight vibration, a drop in performance. These early warnings can stop bigger problems. You’re not just fixing your car - you’re building a relationship with it.

Plus, you control the quality. You know exactly what oil you used. You checked the tire pressure yourself. You didn’t trust a mechanic who might rush through a job.

Start small. Change your oil once. Replace your air filter. Check your tires. Then do it again next month. You’ll be surprised how easy it becomes. And by next winter, you’ll be the one helping friends with their cars - not the one calling for a tow truck.

Next Steps: Build Your Confidence

Start with one task this weekend - maybe checking your oil or topping up washer fluid. Write down what you did, what tools you used, and how long it took. Next time, add another. Soon, you’ll be changing your own air filter and tire pressure without thinking twice.

Keep a small notebook in your glovebox. Note dates for oil changes, tire rotations, and fluid checks. You’ll know exactly when to do the next one. No more guessing. No more surprises.

DIY car maintenance isn’t about being a mechanic. It’s about being in control. Your car doesn’t need fancy tools - it needs attention. And that’s something you already have.