Maintenance in Van Life: Essential On-the-Road Repairs for Full-Time Travelers

Living full-time in a van sounds free and adventurous-until your water pump dies in the middle of nowhere, your fridge stops cooling on a 90-degree day, or your battery bank drains before sunrise. Van life isn’t just about scenic views and coffee in the mountains. It’s about knowing how to fix things when you’re 200 miles from the nearest town. The difference between a smooth trip and a stranded nightmare? Regular maintenance and knowing what to do when things break.

What Breaks Most in a Van Conversion?

Not every van is the same, but certain systems fail more often than others. Based on real-world reports from over 300 van lifers surveyed in 2024, here’s what breaks the most:

• Water pumps - 68% of van owners report failure within the first 18 months. Cheap pumps bought online often die under constant use.
• 12V battery systems - Poor wiring, undersized cables, or mismatched chargers cause 52% of electrical issues.
• Refrigerators - Absorption fridges (like Dometic CFX3) fail when not leveled or if ventilation is blocked.
• Propane lines and regulators - Cracks and leaks are common after years of vibration and temperature swings.
• Tires and wheel bearings - Van tires wear faster than car tires due to heavier loads and rough roads.

These aren’t rare glitches. They’re predictable. The key isn’t avoiding them-it’s preparing for them.

Essential Tools for On-the-Road Repairs

You don’t need a full workshop. But you do need the right tools to handle the top 5 failures. Here’s what fits in a 12x12x6 inch toolbox:

• 12V multimeter - For testing batteries, fuses, and wiring. Get one with a continuity beeper.
• Set of metric wrenches and sockets - Most van parts use metric sizes. Include a torque wrench for wheel nuts.
• Heavy-duty zip ties (20+) - Fix loose hoses, wires, or panels in seconds.
• Water pump diaphragm kit - For common 12V pumps like Shurflo or Jabsco. Replacing the diaphragm costs $12 and takes 15 minutes.
• Propane leak detector spray - Mix dish soap and water. Spray it on fittings. Bubbles mean a leak.
• Extra fuses (5A, 10A, 15A, 20A) - Most electrical failures are just blown fuses.
• Self-amalgamating tape - Waterproofs electrical connections without heat.
• Portable air compressor - For tire pressure checks and minor leaks.

Keep this kit in an easily accessible spot-not tucked under the bed. You’ll need it at 2 a.m. when your fridge stops working.

How to Fix a Dead Water Pump

Your sink drips. Your shower won’t turn on. The pump hums but doesn’t push water. That’s usually a failed diaphragm.

1. Turn off the 12V power to the pump.
2. Locate the pump (usually under the sink or in a storage compartment).
3. Unscrew the inlet and outlet hoses. Drain any remaining water.
4. Remove the four screws holding the pump housing.
5. Take out the old diaphragm. It’s a thin rubber disc with a metal plate.
6. Install the new one. Make sure the metal plate faces the motor side.
7. Reassemble, reconnect hoses, and turn the power back on.
8. Run water for 30 seconds to purge air.

Most people buy a new pump for $150. Replacing the diaphragm costs $12 and saves you hours of waiting for parts. Keep two spares in your kit.

Diagnosing Battery Problems Without a Pro

A dead battery is the #1 reason vans get stuck. But it’s rarely the battery’s fault-it’s the system around it.

Use your multimeter:

1. Turn off all power loads (lights, fridge, inverter).
2. Set the multimeter to DC voltage.
3. Touch the red probe to the positive terminal, black to negative.

Here’s what the reading means:

• 12.6V or higher - Fully charged
• 12.4V - 75% charged
• 12.2V - 50% charged
• 12.0V or lower - Deeply discharged. Risk of permanent damage.

If your battery reads below 12.0V after sitting for 12 hours, something is draining it. Common culprits:

• LED lights left on
• Bluetooth speakers or phone chargers plugged in
• Bad isolator or charger
• Old battery that can’t hold charge

Install a battery monitor (like Victron BMV-712) to track usage. It shows you exactly how much power you’re using-and if you’re overdrawn.

Why Your Fridge Isn’t Cooling (And How to Fix It)

If your fridge runs but doesn’t get cold, it’s not broken. It’s misused.

Most van fridges are absorption models. They need:

• Level ground - Even a 5-degree tilt stops cooling. Use a small bubble level on the fridge.
• Good airflow - The back vent must have 6+ inches of clearance. Dust buildup blocks heat dissipation.
• Proper propane flow - If the flame is yellow or flickering, the regulator is clogged. Clean it with compressed air.
• Stable power - Voltage drops below 11.5V and the fridge switches to propane. If propane fails, it shuts off.

Check the flame at night with a flashlight. It should be steady and blue. If it’s orange or weak, clean the burner tube with a pipe cleaner. Don’t use water-it leaves residue.

Preventing Tire Blowouts on Long Trips

Van tires carry 30-40% more weight than car tires. They also sit longer without movement. That’s a recipe for sidewall cracks and blowouts.

Do this every 500 miles:

• Check tire pressure with a digital gauge. Set to manufacturer’s max load rating-not the car’s recommendation.
• Look for cracks on the sidewalls. If you see more than 3 deep lines, replace the tire.
• Spin each wheel by hand. Listen for grinding. That’s a failing bearing.
• Check lug nuts. Tighten to 85-95 lb-ft torque. Loose nuts cause wheel wobble and heat buildup.

Replace tires every 4 years, even if they look fine. Rubber degrades from UV exposure and heat, not just tread wear.

When to Call a Pro (And When to Keep Going)

Some fixes are DIY. Others aren’t worth the risk.

Call a mechanic if:

• Brakes feel spongy or squeal
• Engine overheats or loses power
• Transmission slips or makes grinding noises
• Steering feels loose or pulls to one side

You can handle:

• Water pump diaphragm
• Blown fuse
• Loose wire connection
• Propane leak (if you can isolate and seal it)
• Tire pressure and minor air leaks

Don’t guess with brakes or steering. A $200 repair on the side of the road is better than a $20,000 hospital bill.

Build a Maintenance Schedule (No More Guessing)

Keep a simple log. Write it in a notebook or use a free app like VanLife Tracker.

Every 1,000 miles:

• Check tire pressure and wear
• Inspect battery terminals for corrosion
• Test all lights and switches
• Check fridge ventilation and flame

Every 5,000 miles:

• Replace water pump diaphragm
• Flush water system with vinegar solution
• Inspect propane lines for cracks
• Check wheel bearings (lift wheel, spin, feel for play)

Every 12 months:

• Replace all fuses (even if they’re good)
• Test inverter and charger output
• Check roof seals for leaks
• Replace tires if over 4 years old

Stick to the schedule. Van life doesn’t reward spontaneity-it rewards consistency.

Final Tip: Always Have a Backup Plan

Even the best-maintained van can fail. Always carry:

• At least 5 gallons of water in jugs
• Two spare 12V batteries (or a portable power station)
• A thermal blanket and warm clothes
• A paper map and offline GPS (like Gaia GPS)
• A list of nearby RV repair shops (downloaded ahead of time)

Van life isn’t about avoiding breakdowns. It’s about knowing you can handle them. The more you prep, the more freedom you actually have.