Suspension Maintenance: How to Keep Your Springs, Shocks, and Struts Working Right

If your car feels bouncy over bumps, pulls to one side when braking, or just doesn’t hug the road like it used to, your suspension system is sending you a message. Most drivers ignore it until the ride gets unbearable-or worse, until they lose control in a sudden turn. But suspension maintenance isn’t about fancy upgrades or track-day mods. It’s about safety, control, and stopping distance. And the three core parts you need to watch? Springs, shocks, and struts.

What’s the difference between springs, shocks, and struts?

People mix these up all the time. They’re all part of the suspension, but they do different jobs.

Springs are what hold the car up. Whether they’re coil springs, leaf springs, or torsion bars, their only job is to support the weight of the vehicle and absorb the initial impact from bumps. Think of them like a mattress-you sit on it, it compresses, then it pushes back.

Shocks (or shock absorbers) control how fast the springs bounce back. Without shocks, your car would keep bouncing after every bump-like a pogo stick. Shocks turn kinetic energy into heat, slowing down the spring’s movement. They don’t carry weight; they just dampen motion.

Struts are a combo. They’re a shock absorber built into a spring support. Struts also act as a structural part of the steering and suspension system. Many modern cars, especially front-wheel drives, use struts up front because they save space and reduce complexity.

So if you hear someone say, “I need new shocks,” they might actually mean struts-or both. The key is knowing which your car uses. Check your owner’s manual or look under the car. If the component connects directly to the steering knuckle and has a coil spring wrapped around it, that’s a strut.

How long do suspension parts last?

There’s no magic number, but here’s what most mechanics see in real-world conditions:

• Springs: Often last the life of the car-if they don’t rust or get damaged. On older cars in coastal areas or places that use road salt, they can weaken after 10-12 years.
• Shocks: Start losing effectiveness after 50,000 to 70,000 miles. By 80,000 miles, most are worn out.
• Struts: Same as shocks, but because they’re structural, wear can affect alignment and tire wear faster.

A 2023 study by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration found that 23% of vehicles on UK roads had worn suspension components. That’s more than one in five. And the biggest red flag? Uneven tire wear. If your front tires are wearing on the inside or outside edges, it’s not a tire issue-it’s a suspension issue.

Signs your suspension is failing

You don’t need a diagnostic tool to know something’s wrong. Here’s what to look for:

• Excessive bouncing: Push down hard on one corner of the car. If it bounces more than once or twice, your shocks or struts are done.
• Nose dive when braking: The front end dives down sharply when you stop. That’s not normal-it means the front shocks can’t control the weight transfer.
• Car leans in turns: If your car feels like it’s tipping over in corners, the springs are weak or the struts are worn.
• Clunking or knocking noises: Especially over bumps. That’s often a worn bushing, mount, or broken spring.
• Oil leaks on shocks or struts: If you see wet, oily residue on the shaft of the shock absorber, it’s leaking fluid. That’s a dead giveaway.
• Uneven tire wear: Cupping (scalloped dips around the tread) or feathering (edges worn at an angle) are classic signs of suspension wear.

One driver in Bristol told me his Ford Focus started pulling left after 80,000 miles. He replaced the tires twice. Then he replaced the struts-and the pulling stopped. No alignment needed. Just worn struts.

When to replace them

Don’t wait for complete failure. Here’s when to act:

• Replace shocks or struts together-on the same axle. Mixing old and new parts creates imbalance and hurts handling.
• If one strut is leaking or worn, replace both front or both rear struts. Even if the other side looks fine, it’s close behind.
• Replace springs only if they’re broken, sagging, or rusted through. You don’t need new springs just because your shocks are worn.
• Always get a wheel alignment after replacing struts or shocks. They change the geometry. Driving with misaligned wheels wears tires fast and makes steering feel off.

Some people try to save money by replacing only one side. Don’t. It’s like wearing one worn-out shoe. You’ll feel the difference immediately-and it’s unsafe.

What happens if you ignore suspension problems?

Ignoring worn suspension doesn’t just make the ride rough. It makes your car dangerous.

• Longer stopping distances: Worn shocks mean your tires don’t stay planted. In an emergency stop, your car can skid or hydroplane more easily.
• Loss of control: On wet roads or sharp turns, a worn suspension can cause oversteer or understeer without warning.
• Damage to other parts: Worn struts stress your tires, steering components, and even brake rotors. You’ll end up paying for more repairs later.
• Increased risk of accidents: The AA (Automobile Association) reports that 12% of UK road accidents linked to vehicle defects involve suspension failure.

It’s not just about comfort. It’s about survival.

How to check your suspension yourself

You don’t need a garage to spot trouble. Here’s a quick 5-minute check:

1. Look under the car: Check for oil leaks on shocks or struts. Look for rust on springs, especially near the mounting points.
2. Do the bounce test: Push down firmly on each corner. Count the bounces. More than two? Time to replace.
3. Check tire wear: Look for cupping or feathering. Use a coin-if you can see the top of Lincoln’s head on a penny when you insert it into the tread, your tires are too worn. But if the wear is uneven, it’s suspension.
4. Listen: Drive slowly over a bumpy parking lot. Listen for clunks, rattles, or squeaks.
5. Feel the steering: Does the wheel vibrate? Does the car feel loose or wander? That’s often a sign of worn bushings or ball joints-linked to suspension wear.

Take notes. If you’re planning to sell the car, a clean record of suspension work adds value. If you’re keeping it, you’ll know what’s coming next.

Replacement costs and what to expect

Prices vary by car and location, but here’s a realistic range for the UK in 2025:

Strut assemblies cost more because they come pre-assembled with spring, mount, and bearing. Some shops sell them as a unit. Others sell parts separately. Pre-assembled is easier, but more expensive. DIYers can save money by buying parts and doing the work-but only if you have the right tools and experience.

For a basic compact car like a Volkswagen Golf or Toyota Corolla, expect to pay £500-£700 to replace both front struts and get an alignment. For a larger SUV like a Ford Kuga or BMW X3, it can hit £900-£1,200.

What brands to trust

Not all shocks and struts are created equal. Here are the brands mechanics in Bristol actually use:

• Monroe: Reliable, affordable, and widely available. Great for everyday drivers.
• KYB: Japanese engineering. Popular for better ride quality and durability.
• Fenox: Budget-friendly but decent for low-mileage cars.
• Bilstein: Premium choice. Used by performance shops. Lasts longer, handles better.
• TRW: Often original equipment on European cars. Match factory specs exactly.

Stick with OEM-spec replacements unless you’re upgrading for performance. Cheap no-name brands can fail in under 20,000 miles. You’ll end up paying twice.

What to do after replacement

Replacing suspension isn’t the end-it’s the start of better driving.

• Get an alignment immediately. Even if the old parts didn’t look bad, the new ones change the angles.
• Check tire pressure. Worn suspension can make tires wear unevenly even with correct pressure.
• Drive gently for the first 100 miles. Let the new parts settle.
• Keep a log. Note the date, mileage, and parts used. It helps with resale and future repairs.

After replacing my own struts on a 2018 Honda Civic, I noticed the steering felt tighter, the brakes felt more stable, and the tires lasted another 15,000 miles without uneven wear. That’s the real payoff.

Preventive tips to make your suspension last

You can’t stop wear-but you can slow it down:

• Avoid potholes. They’re the #1 killer of suspension parts.
• Don’t overload your car. Excess weight stresses springs and shocks.
• Wash undercarriage in winter. Salt eats metal fast. A quick rinse under the car in spring helps.
• Get a suspension check every 20,000 miles or once a year. Many garages offer it for free during service.
• Replace worn bushings and mounts when you replace shocks. They’re cheap and prevent premature shock failure.

Think of your suspension like your spine. It’s not glamorous, but if it fails, everything else suffers. Keep it healthy, and your car will keep you safe.